For any of you out there still suffering from Bowing And Drifting (BAD) cuts we finally have an answer: Falberg Reset Bandsaw Blades. On sale now for $35.00 .
We´ve known, as you have, that a wider set and higher set angle are necessary to make those deep cuts in hard timber. We got tired of hand setting blades and designed our own machine to accurately reset 2 and 3 TPI blades in the 3/8" to 3/4" range of width, which most of you use for timber work. We are primarily offering Suffolk blades in a variety of set angles so you´ll have more, and better, choices when selecting the right blade for a given cut.
You´ll notice on the following chart that Lennox Tri Master, Carter, WoodSlicer, and WoodTurner blades are also included. We did that for a comparative reference. There are many brands we haven´t tried so please help us shed some light on the subject by sending us a 4 or 6 inch sample of the blades you´re currently using for inclusion in this database. It would help us all to know. Most blade distributers don´t like to list the full actual specs for their blades and would rather sell you the "sizzle" of the "Brand", probably thinking you wouldn´t understand the specifications anyway. I credit my customers with the know-how to use these specs profitably. It´s not a hobby and we don´t have time for guesswork.
In our continuing effort to remove the mysticism from blade selection and replace it with facts based on hard evidence and empirical testing, we listed them in ascending order based on their set angles. Bearing in mind that the opposite of BAD is *flatness* and we take that as our first priority before considering any other attribute. Therefore:
Given a 12" x 12" reclaimed Doug Fir beam:
The higher the set angle:
1. the tighter the minimum turn radius (MTR).
2. the rougher the finish.
3. the deeper you´ll cut before BAD sets in.
4. the harder it is to feed.
5. the slower it cuts.
6. the longer the blade´s *effective* life.
7. the less tension is needed and the motor runs cooler.
8. the more material waste, and dust.
But, on the other hand; the lower the set angle:
1. the faster the feed rate.
2. the smoother the finish.
3. the wider the MTR.
4. the less effective cut depth .
5. the more likely you´ll get a BAD cut.
6. the more tension is needed, and subsequent motor load.
7. the more critical sharpness becomes.
8. the less material waste, and dust.
All things being equal, you won´t
need as much set angle to rip arches as you´ll need to cut rafter tails and the saw will feed much faster. Change blades
as you go from one function to another; it´ll pay off in working time and blade life. In most cases you´ll see four or five times the *effective* blade life using re-set blades, and
they´ll still cut after that new "factory" edge wears off. Notice the MTR for the 42A4. We actually cut a plug smaller
than a dime with it through 10´´ of Cedar. The listed MTR of 1/2" was derived (as they all were) from a 12" deep reclaimed and very hard piece of Doug Fir. We tested carbide-tipped as
much as we could afford and found them uniformly to cut smoother kerfs and, when
re-set, will cut to any material thickness and dramatically tighter radii. If
you´re cutting hard wood you´d do well to ask about our re-set carbide blades. They are cost effective in many cases.
As always, we recommend you keep a variety of blades on hand to match the variety of jobs you do and change them accordingly. Nothing is worse than fighting a saw through tough cuts, but when you´ve got the right cutting solution it´s bandsaw heaven.
